France

Paris, October 2006

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Musée de Cluny

If you have the time and you enjoy seeing works of art and learning more about the history of the Middle Ages, the Musée de Cluny is the place for you! I really loved this museum as it isn't too big and gives a wonderful overview over the Middle Ages in France. Unfortunately I ran out of time for the day during my visit and had to haste my way through the museum, but it has left me with a wonderful impression. The name of the museum is a bit confusing as it is sometimes referred to as the Musée de Cluny and sometimes as the Musée National du Moyen Âge (Museum of the Middle Ages).

The museum houses a variety of important artifacts dating to the Middle Ages. It is in particular known for its wonderful tapestry collection. The most famous of them all is the "La Dame à la Licorne" (The Lady and the Unicorn) dating back to the 15th century. To my surprise there is not just one "Lady and the Unicorn", but it is a serie of in total 6 wall covering tapestries. In the photos below you can see two of these, the one on the left is called "Sight" and to the right is "To My Only Desire". It's quite amazing to stand in this room and be surrounded by the bright red colours of these 6 tapestries.

Photography is allowed inside the museum, but only without flash. The rooms are rather dark, so you do need a steady hand to be able to take some photos.

Opening hours:
Daily (except Tuesday), from 9:15 to 5:45, Desk closes at 5:15
Closed 1 January, 1 May and 25 December.

Admission Fee: 6,5 €

Musée de Cluny

The Notre-Dame

A visit to Paris would probably not be complete without a visit of the Notre Dame de Paris. Or at least that seems to be the case when reading about Paris. But is it true? Is it the must see everyone claims that it is? That could be discussed and everyone has probably his own opinion about it. For me it wasn't the best, but more about that later. Let me tell you a bit about the history and background of this famous cathedral first.

Notre Dame

The Notre Dame wasn't the first place of worship to be built on this particular spot in the heart of Paris. Previously it were the Celts that had their sacred ground here, and after that a Roman temple worshipping Jupiter, a Christian basilica and finally a Romanesque church were build on this spot. But in 1163 the building of the famous Notre-Dame started. It took almost 200 years, until 1345, before the cathedral was finally finished.

During its almost 900 years of history the cathedral witnessed a lot of major events, like the crowning of Henry VI of England to the King of France in 1431 and the crowning of Napoleon Bonaparte as Emperor on December 1, 1804. But not all of its history has been so glamorous. From 1793 the cathedral went through some of its saddest years, when during the French Revolution many of its treasures were destroyed or stolen and sculptures were smashed and destroyed. But luckily the cathedral was restored several times during its life.

Taking a look inside the Notre Dame

When you stand in front of the Notre Dame it is hard to resist not to take a look inside, so of course that was what I did as well. The cathedral is big, and without a doubt impressive on the inside. But for me it missed the 'spark' I did feel in so many other churches, maybe those churches and cathedrals were not nearly as famous as the Notre-Dame, but they feel more intact and original then this one.

Inside the Notre Dame

The crowds invade the Cathedral on a daily basis, making it difficult to walk around in the Cathedral in a leisurely way, absorbing the works of art, history and atmosphere. No, for me it was more like doing a giant slalom, in a desperate attempt to make my way through the masses and get a bit of space to enjoy some of the Cathedrals works of art. I did see a bit, but no, I couldn't enjoy it. And now, a few months later, while trying to write down a few words about the Cathedral, this feeling of frustration returns again. The Notre-Dame, how famous, and how important it may be, was not my place, not on this day anyway. Well.... except for few things that I did love.... oh yes, I am having mixed feelings, and I know I am not really making any sense. I know it wasn't my place, not on this day, and maybe not on any day. But at the same time I wouldn't want to have missed seeing and having visited the Notre-Dame either. This famous Cathedral is famous for a reason: it does have some amazing features that I do remember well and enjoyed so much, like the glass stained windows, the gargoyles and the sculptures around the entrance.

The Notre Dame is open to the public from 7:45 am to 6:45 pm. Be aware that you might have limited access during Masses and Services

Place St Michel; fountain by Davioud

Place St Michel; fountain by Davioud

In the centre of the Quartier Latin, just west of the tourist heart at the rue de la Huchette, and close to the River Seine, you can see the Place St-Michel. This is a small triangular square, with a large fountain that undoubtedly will draw your attention. The fountain was created by the French sculptor Davioud in 1860. The bronze sculpture in the middle is made by Duret, who was inspired by a Raphaël painting in the Louvre which depicts Saint Michel, protector of France, slaying a dragon (photo 2). On either side of the fountain you can see two large water spitting lion-like creatures (photo 1).